DIY Wainscoting – Part 2 – Cutting The Frames

DIY Wainscoting – Part 2 – Cutting The Frames

Easy To Do Wainscoting - Cutting the Molding



In the first post I went over how you go about designing the wainscoting, what things you should consider and how you go about laying it all out.

Now that you’ve designed the layout of your wainscoting, it’s time to get cutting!!

The cutting is one of the two areas where you can save TONS of time… if you use the tips that you’ll find here.

 In this post we’ll cover cutting the moldings for the rectangular wainscoting frames. Since these are either rectangular, all the moldings used for these frames will have 45 degree angles.

 I’ll probably do a post on the non-45 degree angle cuts later. Those are much trickier.

Anyways, Let’s get to the tips!

 

 

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you decide to purchase any of these products, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We recommend these products only because we have experience with them and use them for our own projects. As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

The Shopping List

Tools List

Here’s a list of the tools we used on this project.

Affiliate links below may be to similar items when exact items couldn’t be found online.

Cordless Finish Nailer

Extra Battery For Finish Nailer

Miter Saw 

Supplies List

These are the supplies used on this project.

Affiliate links below may be to similar items when exact items couldn’t be found online.

4″ Polyester Synthetic Brush – 4 brushes to apply the poly

6 Gauge 1 1/2″ Finish Nails

Why You Need To Make A Jig

I’m sure this isn’t a surprise, but when doing wainscoting you are going to be cutting A LOT of molding. Many of the pieces you’ll be cutting will also be the same length.

By spending a little time in the beginning creating a jig, you’ll save a TON of time cutting those same sized pieces to length.

The jig basically extends the miter saw platform and allows you to add stoppers at the length of the molding you want to cut.

By using the jig you’ll only need to measure the molding size for the first piece of molding.

Then you’ll use that piece to set the stopper and all the other pieces of the same size can be cut by butting the end of the molding against the stopper and cutting.

No need to measure after that. 🙂

 

Making The Cutting Jig

This is what my jig looked like. Here’s a breakdown of the pieces of wood used:

A scrap piece of plywood acts as the base of the jig. The plywood keeps everything lined up. The miter saw and the pieces of wood used for the jig are all screwed into the plywood.

A 2×4 standing on it’s end acts as an extension to the miter saw base.

A 1×4 screwed into the 2×4 acts as an extension to the miter saw backstop.

There really is no right or wrong way to make the jig.

As long as:

  • it’s longer than the molding pieces you’ll be cutting
  • the base extension is at the same or similar height to the miter saw base
  • backstop extension lines up with the miter saw backstop
wainscoting - molding jig with details
wainscoting - molding jig from behind with details

Using Your Cutting Jig

Now that you have a jig made here’s how you use it.

1- Cut The First Molding

You’ll need to cut your first piece of molding to the size you want first. Once it’s cut you’ll use that molding to set the stopper.

Once the stopper is in place you’ll be able to cut all the other same sized moldings without having to measure again.

2- Use The Closed Blade To Keep Molding In Place

To set the stopper, place the miter saw in the closed position and place the molding you cut in step 1 against the blade.

wainscoting - using the cutting jig place molding against closed blade

3- Set The Stopper

With the molding placed snug against the saw blade you can now set the stopper on the other side of the molding.

I marked the end of the molding on the back stop with a pen and lined up the edge of the stopper with the pen line and screwed it in place.

Now that the stopper is in place you can cut all your other same sized moldings without measuring.

wainscoting - molding jig setting the stopper 2

Tip:  I also wrote the molding measurement on the backstop (as you can see in the picture) That way if I needed to cut another piece of molding the same size again I’d already have the stopper placement without having to measure again.

4- Cut The Angle That Will Be Against The Stopper First

I’m finding it tough to explain, but you want to cut the angle that would end up against the stopper first, then place that angle against the stopper and make the cut to size.

With my jig, since the jig is on the left I needed to do the left angle on my molding first.

So I set my miter saw to the 45 degree mark to the right and cut the left 45 degree angle.

Wainscoting - the first angle to cut with details

5- Place The Molding Against The Stopper To Cut To Size

Once the left angle is cut, spin the miter saw to the 45 degree mark on the left, place the molding against the backstop and the left angle against the stopper.

Now cut the second angle – which also cuts the molding to the correct length.

wainscoting - molding jig setting the stopper details 2

Tip:  Instead of cutting the left angle then the right angle on each molding, it’s faster to cut all the left angles first, then spin the miter saw to the other side and do all the right angles.

Otherwise you spend a lot of time just spinning the miter saw left and right.

There You Have It

Now you can cut all the moldings you need for the rectangular wainscoting frames. In the next post I’ll share how I nailed the moldings to the wall.

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Easy Way To Do Wainscoting - Cutting the Molding - Portrait
DIY Wainscoting – Part 1 – Design And Layout

DIY Wainscoting – Part 1 – Design And Layout

Easy To Do Wainscoting - Design And Layout



If you look on Pinterest for wainscoting you’ll find all kinds of different styles and versions of wainscoting, from the super simple to the incredibly ornate.

I wanted something that looked fancy without going over the top and I didn’t want it to be too difficult to install.

I think what we chose did just that, it added a ton of style and character and looks great. And it didn’t take a ton of time to do.

I did the wainscoting in the downstairs first, then about a year later I decided to also do wainscoting upstairs. If I added up the time between the upstairs and the downstairs it probably took a total of roughly 2 weeks for both… but keep in mind they are pretty big spaces.

In this post I’ll go over what we did and why we did it. No matter what style you choose, you’ll find tips in here to make your install go smoother.

I think the secret to wainscoting is using templates and spacers. Since most of the pieces of the wainscoting are the same size you can make templates to cut them faster and spacers allow a consistent spacing without having to measure every space.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you decide to purchase any of these products, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We recommend these products only because we have experience with them and use them for our own projects. As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

Deciding On A Wainscoting Style

We looked at a lot of Pinterest pins of wainscoting to find one that fit the style we had in mind.

Honestly, if you don’t know what style you’d like, doing a search on Pinterest is a great way to find out what choices you have.

Of course if you like the layout and moldings we used, feel free to copy what we did. 🙂

So Many Options

There are so many ways to do your wainscoting, and they look great in their own way.

Take a look a the different layouts that exist on Pinterest.  If you don’t find exactly what you want come up with your own wainscoting flavor with a mix from one or two that you do like.

Here are a few that we liked:

wainscoting paint colors
wainscoting paint colors
wainscoting paint colors
wainscoting paint colors

The Pin The Inspired Us

This is the pin that inspired our flavor of wainscoting design. We loved how it looked and loved the second horizontal molding between the boxes or frames and the chair molding.

wainscoting paint colors

The Design We Used

Our flavor of wainscoting differs from the pin that inspired it in a few ways – but I think you can see the similarity. 

The differences:

  • Uses a heftier second horizontal molding (it’s the same one we used for the frames)
  • Has the chair molding higher (so it lined up with the kitchen bar and the half wall)
  • Use rectangles standing up instead of the squares or rectangles that are laying down (which seems pretty common)
  • Our spaces around the squares are 3 1/2″

 

wainscoting - molding the design we used

The Style

We looked at a lot of Pinterest pins of wainscoting to find one that fit the style we had in mind.

We liked the wainscoting frames to be more rectangular than square and taller rather than wider.

Initially, we were going to only have the chair molding on top of the frames, but after trying it we realized it needed an extra little something, so we added another horizontal molding between the chair and the frames.

The Height

How high do you want your wainscoting to go?

I came across a post that discusses wainscoting height in detail. Her tip was to use the rule of thirds, meaning the wainscoting shouldn’t go higher than a third of the way up the wall.

Here’s the link if you’d like to find out more.

I didn’t come across the article until I started writing this post, but even if I had come across it before I probably still wouldn’t have followed the rule of thirds. That’s because for each floor we wanted the wainscoting height to line up with something else in the space – and that didn’t line up with a third of the wall height.

On the first floor it was the kitchen bar top and on the second floor it was the half wall in the loft space.

If you’re trying to figure out a height to use try the rule of thirds, or line it up with something else in the space, or if there isn’t something in the space that you’d like the wainscoting to line up with then you can use the measurements we used as a starting point and adjust however you need to. 🙂

The height (from the floor to the top of the chair-molding) on the 1st floor was 41″ and the height on the 2nd floor was 41 1/2″.

Figure Out The Frame Width

This was one of the biggest stumbling blocks for me when I started this project. How was I going to make all the frames the same width?

Since all the walls are different sizes it seemed impossible… and well – it is.

I figured out in the end that every wainscoting frame doesn’t need to be the same width or even the same height –

I didn’t want the frames to be square-shaped if I could avoid it and based on the height of the wainscoting I aimed for frames that were around 18 inches wide.

The Space Around The Frames

The spacing between the frames is THE thing that needs to be consistent.

As long as the spacing around the frames is the same everything will flow.

For ours, we chose a spacing of 3 1/2″ all around each frame, that way we could use pieces of 2×4 as a spacers.

The Molding We Used

We used two different pieces of molding for the wainscoting, one for the chair-molding and the other for the frames and the horizontal molding between the chair-molding and frames.

We bought both of them from Home Depot. Here they are, you can click on the image if you’d like to get the same molding. 

The Chair Molding (Top Molding)

This is the chair molding. There was a poly version of this molding which is much cheaper but the features were a bit more exaggerated and we liked the look of the wood version better.

The Molding For The Frames

This is the molding we used for the frames and as the second horizontal molding (below the chair molding).

It’s a poly molding so it was really inexpensive… luckily because we bought A LOT of it. 🙂

Our Colors

For the wall colors we chose greige colors (a mix of grey and beige).

A lot of wainscoting pics we came across left the wainscoting frames white on a different colored wall.  That makes the wainscoting pop out more, but we chose to paint the frames the same color as the wall instead.

Painting the wainscoting the same color as the wall gives it a built-in look, which we liked.

If you’d like to use the same colors here are the two colors we used:

 

Bottom Paint Color

Sherwin Williams

Aesthetic White (SW7035)

Showcase

Interior Satin

Top Paint Color

Sherwin Williams

Anew Grey (SW7030)

Showcase

Interior Eggshell

wainscoting paint colors

The Measurements We Used

The picture has all the measurements we used.

We knew the total height of the wainscoting was 41 1/2″ (to line up with the height of the half wall in the space) so we worked backward from that measurement.

We placed the top of the chair-molding at 41 1/2″ and placed the smaller horizontal molding below it to see what spacing between it and the chair-molding worked for us. We came up with 3″.

Because I also knew I was going to use pieces of 2 x 4 as spacers I could now figure out the height of the wainscot frames.

Here’s how we figured out the height of the wainscot frames is:

 

The total height of the wainscoting 41 1/2″
Minus The chair molding thickness – 2 3/4″
Minus the space below the chair molding – 3″
Minus the second horizontal molding thickness – 1 1/4″
Minus The spacing above the frame – 3 1/2″
Minus The spacing below the frame – 3 1/2″
Minus The thickness of the baseboard – 4 1/2″
Equals The Wainscot Frame Height = 23″
Wainscoting Measurements

Figuring Out The Frame Width

Ok, you’ve figured out the style, molding, height, spacing and the colors – now it’s time for some math!

This part may feel a little intimidating but trust me, it’s much easier to do than it seems. 

Like every other aspect of this project, there are probably a million other ways to figure this out but here’s an example of how I measured it.

 Let’s use the wall in the picture for the example, the wall measured 124 1/2″ and I ended up using 6 wainscoting frames.

Wainscoting Box Measurements

Calculating For The 6 Frames Shown

First, I subtract the left spacing from the total, which for me is 3 1/2″ or 3.5″, take a look at the picture for more of a visual.

That gives me 121″, now divide 121″ by the number of frames you think would fit. In the picture example I used 6.

 121″ / 6 = 20.16″

So each frame + it’s spacing on the right would equal 20.16″ in width (The red arrows).

So the frames size would be 20.16 minus the spacing on the right.

The frame size would now be 20.16 – 3.5″ = 16.6″ (The blue arrows)

Since I wanted a rectangular shape 16.6″ worked well. Basically I try the same formula with an additional square or minus a square  to use the one that works best.

Wainscoting Box Measurements

Let’s Say We Calculated for 5 frames

If I tried 5, it would be 121″ / 5 = 24.2 That means each frame + the spacing on it’s right would be 24.2″. So the frame size would be 24.2″ – 3.5″ (the spacing size) which would be 20.7″

The thing to keep in mind there is no right or wrong for any of this. I wanted my frames to look more rectangular in shape than square and a width of 20.7″ would be pretty close to the height of 23″ so instead of doing 5 frames I opted for 6.

Converting Decimal to Fractions

So now you know the frames should be 16.6″… how the heck do you figure that out on a tape measure?!

Figuring out the numbers was definitely easier using a calculator but I ran into a problem of converting the decimal from the calculator back to a fraction I could use with a tape measure.

The answer was a widget I came across that converts decimals to fractions that can be used with a tape measure.

Feet and Inches Calculator

How To Handle Windows

This is something I thought of afterwards. If the window goes below the height of your wainscoting then it would be best to measure that wall in sections, with the space below the window as it’s own section.

 

I’ve seen some wainscoting pics where they kind of use “L” shaped frames to conform around the window… I don’t think it looks that great.

 

I think it looks more put together if the frames under the window are a different width and height – as long as the spacing around the frames is the same as the rest of the wall it will all fit together.

 I don’t have any windows to show an example but I think I’ll draw a diagram to explain it a bit more.

That’s It For The Wainscoting Designing And Layout

That’s it for the designing and laying out your wainscoting. Now that you figured out all the nitty gritty for your wainscoting it’s time to start cutting some molding! I’ll cover that in the next post!

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Easy Way To Do Wainscoting - Designing and Layout

DIY Home Theater Final Reveal

DIY Home Theater Final Reveal

DIY Home Theater Design - The Final Reveal



It took quite a bit of research and effort to get the theater done and it is finished!

Actually, the theater was finished a while ago but I realized that we never had the reveal along with additional pics of the finished theater.

So here it is, the home theater final reveal!

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you decide to purchase any of these products, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We recommend these products only because we have experience with them and use them for our own projects. As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

The Home Theater Final Reveal

This was a pretty big project, it took loads of research, calculations and choices to get to the final product. We decided to do all the work ourselves, which saved us a ton of money and also gives us a sense of accomplishment. 🙂

We love, love, love our theater and use it regularly. For the most part there isn’t much we would change.

There are a couple of things, which I’ll cover at the end of the post.

The Beginning (ish)

Unfortunately, we don’t have any before pics and very few during pics. 🙁

We started the home theater project before we had the idea of starting a blog, and apparently we didn’t do a good job of taking pictures.

Anyhow, here are a few pics of the work in progress. 

Laying Out The Home Theater Seating

Before the room was transformed into a home theater, it was a clean slate for us to work in. It was a regular rectangular room with no closets.

You can get an idea of what it was like before in the picture below.

We ordered the seating before we did anything else. There was a sale so we pulled the trigger.

We ordered the seating based on the measurements that they had online. Needless to say we were a bit nervous that the measurements would have been off… luckily everything worked out. 🙂

Once the layout was ironed out I started work on the riser.

And before I got too far into the riser construction I tested the height of the risers with the chairs to make sure things were still lining up the way I wanted it to. That’s me in the last pic testing the riser height with the chairs in place.

Laying Out The Home Theater Seating
Testing The Home Theater Seating Layout With The Height Of The Risers
Laying Out The Home Theater Seating

Working On The Riser

Now that the riser height was ironed out I could finish the riser.

Before I added the plywood flooring to the risers I needed to I relocate the cable line from this room out into the hallway closet, where all the theater equipment was going to live.

I also needed to add outlets to power the recliners and the LED light for the riser stairs.

I put two on the bottom of the back wall, and two in the center of each step. 

Adding Lights In The Risers Steps Portrait
The Riser Flooring For The Home Theater Is Installed

Time For The Good Stuff – The Projector, Screen and Speakers

This part took a lot of research and calculating. Check out these posts for details on the projector, screen, and speakers.

Once all the calculations were done I tried everything out before making any holes in the walls.

After testing the projector location, I mounted it to the ceiling and ran an electrical outlet right next to it.

Testing The Projector Location
Installing The Wiring For The Speakers
The Home Theater Projector Screen Is Up

The Home Stretch, The Entrance Sign and Painting

The entrance sign was not a very hard part of the project. The hardest part was finding the right sized letters to put above the doors.

It did take a while to find the right-sized letters to use, I was able to find these at Target.

Testing The Letter Size Above The Home Theater Doorway
The Home Theater Riser Is Complete - Still Need To Paint
Installing The Home Theater Entrance Sign

The Finished Home Theater

Here are a bunch of pictures of the finished home theater.

I love the way the theater came out, it’s even better than I was expecting.

There are still a few more things I still need to do, like making a home for the remote control, something like a cubby hole or shelf where it can be charged.

DIY Home Theater Entrance
DIY Home Theater Entrance Sign
DIY Home Theater Entrance Sign From Front
DIY Home Theater Design - The Final Reveal

What I Would Have Done Differently

If we had to do it all over again, there are a few things I would have done differently. Overall, it would be the same home theater – with a few tweaks.

The Stair Lights

I installed lights in the stairs, which is a look that I thought would be great.
The lights I bought were low voltage, which means they have a transformer, and that means they aren’t dimmable.

In the end, I rarely use the lights in the stairs because they are too bright. If I did this again I would buy regular voltage lights that are dimmable. 

The IR Repeater

I bought an IR repeater to have the remote’s signals sent to the closet in the hallway, where the theater equipment is.
The IR repeater worked great, but it turns out the Logitech remote I bought to replace all the remotes uses a radio signal to communicate with the hub (which is in the closet with the equipment) so I no longer need the IR repeater. 

Getting 4K HDR Streaming Content

This was an expensive lesson. The projector itself doesn’t do any streaming, you need to have a device connected to it that will do that for you.
My idea initially was to get a 4K DVD player and that will have 4K streaming. The first DVD player I bought supported 4K Netflix but the Vudu app on it did not support HDR.

I was building up a movie library on Vudu and wanted to have it in HDR if that was a possibility. So I went on a quest looking for a 4K DVD player that supported Vudu in HDR.

I found one and it worked great, but it was a bit pricy and the menus were kinda slow to get to the streaming apps. I tweeted the macros on the Logitech and got it to work correctly, but slow. As a DVD player it was really good, and the streaming apps were there – just slow to navigate the menus.

Then for some reason, I went and bought a Roku.

Holy cow, that was a game-changer!

It supported 4K everything, HDR everything, and was lightning fast!

If I had to do this again I’d get the cheaper 4K DVD player to play the Ultra-HD DVDs and use the Roku for any Streaming apps.

 

The Entire Shopping List

Here’s a list of everything that we are currently using in our home theater.

You can click on the picture to buy the same one for yourself.

Projector

Designing a Home Theater - The Video Projector - Epson Home Cinema 5040UB 3LCD Home Theater Projector with 4K Enhancement

Projector Screen

Designing a Home Theater - The Fixed Projector Screen - Elite Screens - A Fixed Projector Screen

The Projector BackLight Kit

Designing a Home Theater - The Fixed Projector Screen - The LED Kit

The Amplifier

Designing a Home Theater - Home Theater System - Yamaha TS-R7810

The Remote

Designing a Home Theater - Home Theater Remote - Logitech Harmony Elite Remote

The Passive Amplifier

Designing a Home Theater - Home Theater Subwoofer Amplifier

Roku Ultra

Roku Ultra

The Speakers

Designing a Home Theater - Home Theater Speakers - Acoustic Audio HD728 in-wall ceiling home theater 7.2 surround 8 inch speaker system

DIY Home Theater – Finished!

There you have it, pics of the home theater, during the construction and after the DIY home theater was finished.

I hope you find some ideas and tidbits of info in our project that will help you with yours.

What would you do differently in your home theater? Let me know in the comments below!

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DIY Home Theater Design - The Final Reveal - Portrait

How To Start A Grow Bag Victory Garden

How To Start A Grow Bag Victory Garden

How To Start A Grow Bag Victory Garden



Our latest project is indoor gardening. Our initial attempt at a green thumb was trying to give our kitchen scraps a chance at a second life. We’re still doing that, and in addition we’re also planting seeds.

Since Corona Virus is forcing a ton of people into self-isolation, many have taken on new hobbies. With the news now saying that there may be shortages in fresh produce this summer, it came as no surprise that we weren’t the only ones that chose gardening as our new hobby.

So much so that the trend was even given a name, they’re calling them victory gardens.

We would have loved to grow our victory garden in the yard but in our community the HOA doesn’t allow gardens. 🙁

As an alternative, we started using grow bags. We bought a couple of different sizes to accommodate the different types of plants we were thinking of planting.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you decide to purchase any of these products, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We recommend these products only because we have experience with them and use them for our own projects. As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

What You’ll Need To Start Your Grow Bag Victory Garden

You don’t need very much stuff:

  • grow bags
  • potting soil
  • and maybe a bag of seed starter mix if you prefer to start your seeds in a start mix

The Grow Bags

We bought the grow bags in a couple of different sizes, to give us flexibility in what plants we could grow.

The grow bag size you’ll need will, of course, depend on what you plan on growing and how much of it you plan on planting. 

We figured we’d use the deeper bags for plants that needed the depth, like potatoes, carrots, and beats. Basically, anything that required a deeper root system.

We also got shallower and wider grow bags, giving us more planting surface for with plantings that don’t have deep root systems. Things like lettuce, scallions, onions, garlic, herbs, etc…

The Deep Grow Bags

For the deep grow bags we purchased a couple of packs of 7 gallon grow bags, measuring 13″ diameter x 12″ high.

Each pack has 8 bags, that’s a whole lotta bags to plant veggies in. 🙂

You can click the picture of the bag to get the same deep grow bags.

The Wider Grow Bags

With the wider grow bags we purchased 3 grow bags, each measuring 24″ diameter x 8″ high. It didn’t indicate how many gallons each grow bag was but they are perfect for the plants with shallower root systems.

You can click the picture of the bag to get the same deep grow bags.

The Potting Soil

The potting soil we used was MiracleGro Performance Organics.

We didn’t know how much potting soil we were going to need, so we took a guess and bought 9 – 25 quart bags.

We ordered it from Lowes and had it delivered.

So far we’ve used a couple of bags and we’re using 4 deep grow bags.

Although only one is filled to the top, the others are filled about half way.

How To Start A Grow Bag Victory Garden- Potting Soil

Prepping Your Grow Bag Garden

Prepping your grow bag garden is really as straight forward as you’d imagine.

  • Unfold the grow bag
  • Fill the grow bag up with potting soil
  • Plant your seeds or transplant your plants
  • give your plants a good watering
  • Place the bags in a bright area without too much direct sunlight

One thing I did notice is that although the grow bags breath, they also do a great job of keeping the moisture.

Be careful not to over water your plants. I did that in the beginning and soon found out the plants didn’t like my overly generous watering.

Warning: The grow bags are designed to breath – which is a good thing. But as a result, they also allow moisture to permeate through the bag.  If you’re placing your grow bag on carpet, or wood floors make sure to put something underneath the grow bag so it doesn’t stain or damage your floors. I put a sheet of plastic underneath mine to protect the carpet.

Tip:  When using the deeper grow bags you don’t need to go to the top of the bag if what you are planting has shallow roots. You can fold back the top of the bag, similar to what you do to jeans when they are too long.

That way you don’t use more potting soil than you need to.

What Do You Think Of Our Indoor Victory Garden?

That’s pretty much it. So far, we are loving our new hobby.  It really is exciting to see the progress the plants make every day.

We’re not at the point of having new veggies yet but at this rate, the veggies will be here before we know it. 🙂

I hope this post inspires you to start your own indoor grow bag victory garden and shed some light into how easy it is to start one.

What did you think? Have you ever grown things in a grow bag? How did it work out for you?

Let me know in the comments below! Thanks for reading.

 

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How To Start A Grow Bag Victory Garden
5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps



First, let me start off with saying there are definitely waaaay more than just 5 veggies you can grow from kitchen scraps, these are just the first ones I tried. 

With the Corona Virus causing our vacation rental business to come to a screeching halt, we started putting our attention to other interests.

The latest project we’ve taken on is starting a garden, most likely a container garden.

During my perusing on Pinterest, I found a pin on regrowing vegetables from the kitchen scraps.

I just started this project but already have quite a few types of veggies that can be regrown from kitchen scraps.

Like I said, there’s probably many more vegetables you can do this with, but this is a list of the ones I started with.

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links. If you decide to purchase any of these products, we earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. We recommend these products only because we have experience with them and use them for our own projects. As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.

5 Vegetables You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps

#1 – Lettuce

This seems to work with all kinds of lettuce, so far I’ve got butter, red leaf and romaine lettuce regrowing from kitchen scraps.

Out of the 3 the romaine seems to have a head start. To be fair, I was apparently more generous with the amount of base I left on the root – I’m guessing that would make a difference.

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps - Lettuce

How To Start

When cutting the base of your lettuce head off, cut it about 1 1/2 – 2″ from the bottom. Then take the base and put it in a container with a bit of water on the bottom.

Make sure to change out the water every couple of days and in a few days you’ll start seeing new growth emerging from the center of the base. 

Once you a good amount of growth, your new lettuce plant will probably be happier in soil. I’ve read that it would do fine in water, as long as you change out the water every couple of days.

Personally, when I planted the lettuce in the ground I noticed it started growing better. Maybe its just my imagination, but I’m placing my plants in the soil once they start showing signs of new growth.

Update:  I learned recently that lettuce will shoot up right away when the temperature is above 70 degrees. Since we’re in Florida, those temps make it difficult for us to grow lettuce indoors. We keep the temperature around 75 degrees and the romaine lettuce I was testing with, shot straight up.

I’m trying again, this time with butter lettuce. As soon as the lettuce started growing new leaves I put it in dirt. Lets see if that improves things.

I’ll update this post with its progress.

#2 – Basil

We had a long and leggy basil plant that wasn’t producing many leaves anymore. So I figured I’d try to use a cutting to start a new plant.

So far, the basil I’m trying this with hasn’t made any new roots but I’m pretty confident that it will start rooting shortly.

The cutting looks like it’s doing well in the water, and from what I’ve read, basil is a piece of cake to grow from cuttings.

How To Start

You’ll want to give the cutting enough stem so that it can sit in water without the leaves touching the water. If the leaves sit in the water they’ll start rotting and the water will get cloudy and your cutting will probably die off.

So give the cutting a couple of inches of stem.

Take your cutting and place it in a container with enough water for about an inch of the stem to sit in the water.

Place it in a bright area without direct sunlight and wait. 🙂

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps - Basil

#3 – Onions

The onions seem to grow pretty easily, it’s been a week and they look like they’re ready to be put into dirt.

Not sure if an actual whole onion will grow from this experiment but the green stems that grow from it can be used in cooking. The entire plant had an onion flavor.

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps - Onions

#4 – Scallions

The scallions are the rock stars of my kitchen scrap garden! They have been in water for maybe about 5 days and have several inches of new growth already on them.

How To Start

Similar to the lettuce cuttings, when you cut the base of the scallions off cut it a bit higher than usual. About a couple of inches of the plant from the base.

Put them in a container with water on the bottom and you are all set.

Since they usually already have some roots, these guys didn’t waste any time growing.

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps - Scallions

#5 – Garlic

Ok, so this isn’t exactly using kitchen scraps, since you’re taking the entire unused clove and sticking it into the ground.

Maybe it’s more like a garden tithing. 🙂

I took a few small cloves of garlic and planted them in the dirt next to the tomato slice. They were in the dirt about 3 days and I’m starting to see some green on the tops of a few of the cloves.

I’m guessing they could have also had the base of the garlic sitting in a little puddle of water to get it to start growing but I tried sticking it directly in the ground and that seemed to work like a charm.

5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps - Scallions

Caring For Your Kitchen Scrap Garden

It’s pretty straight-forward to care for it. Place them in an area that is bright but doesn’t have direct sun.  For the scraps that are in water make sure to swap out the water every day or other day and for the scraps in dirt make sure their dirt stays moist – without over watering.

Before you know it you’ll start seeing new growth and your kitchen scrap garden will by off to the races! 🙂

Once the kitchen plants turn more into plants (either they grow roots are start growing new leaves) I’ll transplant them into grow bags.

Tip:  When cutting the vegetable it seems to help to leave a bit of “meat” along with it. The lettuce and onions that I cut short didn’t seem to grow as fast or well compared to the ones where I left some more “meat”.



That’s My Kitchen Scrap Garden List

There are probably dozens of other veggies you can try this with, these are just the ones I’ve started with. I’m sure I’ll be adding other scraps to the list as I come across new ones.

Once the veggies grow a bit I’ll be transferring them to grow bags.

 What did you think? I know I personally will never look at kitchen scraps the same way again. 🙂

Have you ever tried recycling your kitchen scraps? If so what veggies did you try? Did it work for you?

Lemme know in the comments below.

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5 Veggies You Can Grow From Kitchen Scraps