DIY rustikales Bauernhaus Weit Plank Sperrholz Bodenbelag - a closeup of the distressing and Knots This is a fantastic plywood flooring idea The finished plywood floor was made using a gel stain and finishing it with an oil-modified polyurethane Here's a step by step tutorial on installing plywood flooring
As you’d expect, DIY Rustic Wide Plank Plywood Flooring takes much longer to finish than just installing pre-made planks.
This project was the truest sense of DIY. Everything from cutting the plywood into wide plank boards, to sanding, staining, finishing and installing the plywood planks down… all of it DIY.
All things considered, the entire project, from start to finish didn’t take that long.
From cutting the planks out of plywood, to finally installing the floors in both the dining room and kitchen – took about a week.
If you’re willing to put in the time and sweat, it is absolutely worth it!
The floors look gorgeous (the pictures don’t do it justice) and you really would not know that they are stained plywood floors.
Lesen Sie weiter, um zu erfahren, was zur Herstellung und Verlegung unserer rustikalen Breitdielen-Sperrholzböden nötig war und wie Sie Ihren eigenen, einzigartigen Sperrholzboden verlegen können.
Bekanntgabe: Einige der Links unten sind Affiliate-Links. Wenn Sie sich entscheiden, eines dieser Produkte zu kaufen, Wir verdienen eine kleine Provision ohne zusätzliche Kosten für Sie. Wir empfehlen diese Produkte nur, weil wir haben Erfahrung mit ihnen und sie für unsere eigenen Projekte. Als Amazon Associates, Wir verdienen mit qualifizierten Einkäufen.
Ein Teil des Bodenbelags in unserer Ferienwohnung in Poconos musste ersetzt werden. Nämlich, der schwimmende Hartholzboden im Esszimmer und in der Küche und der Teppich im Wohnzimmer.
Unser Ziel war es, neue Böden zu haben, die alt aussehen, warm, und abgenutzt – als wären sie schon immer da gewesen. Grundsätzlich gilt, Je mehr es nach Bauernboden oder Scheunenholz aussah, desto besser war es für uns.
Wir haben uns Fliesen angesehen, Stein, und Hartholzböden. The problem with all of them was that they all needed a level sub-floor and ours was uneven… like really uneven.
Da das gesamte Haus aus grob geschnittener Eiche besteht, Der Bodenbelag ist nicht einmal annähernd eben.
Das macht Fliesen, Stein- und sogar Hartholzböden sind sehr schwierig zu verlegen. Die zusätzliche Schwierigkeit führt auch zu sehr hohen Installationskosten.
Es war Zeit, kreativ zu werden, DIY-Böden waren unsere Zukunft. Um weitere Ideen für Bodenbeläge zu erhalten, haben wir uns an Pinterest gewandt. Nach langem Scrollen, Wir stießen auf breite Landhausdielen-Sperrholzböden im Landhausstil!
Auf Pinterest, Es gab eine Unmenge (Na ja, vielleicht nicht ganz so viele) Ideen für Sperrholzböden, Aber am besten passte für uns der breite Dielenboden.
The pictures of the wide plank plywood flooring projects others had posted were incredible – this was it! Dies war der perfekte Bodenbelag für unebene Böden.
Wir waren von der Idee überzeugt.
Auf Pinterest bin ich auf ein Konzept gestoßen, das ausschlaggebend dafür war, dass ich mich für Sperrholz gegenüber anderen Bodenbelägen entschieden habe.
Es heißt Wabi-Sabi.
Es ist eine japanische Tradition, die die Kunst darstellt, kaputte Dinge besser zu machen als ganz neue.
Die Idee besteht darin, die Unvollkommenheiten hervorzuheben und sie vollkommen unvollkommen zu machen.
Mit dieser neuen Perspektive, I was looking for imperfections to show off – instead of avoiding them.
Wenn (oder wann) Die Böden bekommen neue Abnutzungsspuren oder Kratzer, it will add to the floor’s character. It’s a very freeing concept that I am really glad I came across.
Click on the picture to see the Pinterest pin that inspired me, I hope it does the same for you.
Most people decide to install plywood plank flooring because of it’s affordability.
It’s much cheaper to install a plywood floor than traditional hardwood or even a laminate, heck it’s even cheaper than doing vinyl.
For our plywood farmhouse floors, the cost wasn’t much of a factor in our decision-making process.
Versteh mich nicht falsch, it’s always nice to save some dough… it was just lower on our list.
Higher on our list was flooring that was sturdy, looked like it has always been there, fit with the style of the house and would be easy to install on an uneven floor.
Between the option of making wider planks and the spacing between each one – wide plank plywood flooring was a perfect fit for this house.
The spacing between each board makes it more forgiving in scenarios like ours where the floor isn’t level.
On top of that, the Japanese concept I came across helped me realize that any blemishes the floor will gain as it ages will only add to the floor’s beauty.
So it didn’t need to be as sturdy as hardwood, we’ll just embrace the imperfections that come along with it! 🙂
Another huge benefit to plywood floor planks is the design versatility.
I love how my plywood plank floors turned out. There really is nothing I would change, but one thing that’s great about plywood planks is that there is no limit to what you can do.
I LOVE the way the rustic plywood floor planks came out, but the plywood planks could have looked just as good with a modern look.
Take a look at plywood floor planks on Pinterest. You’ll see there is no limit to the style, Farbe, shape, size, or texture. It’s all just a matter of preference – how cool is that?
We knew that we saved quite a bit of money by choosing plywood faux plank flooring but we didn’t realize how much until someone asked for a breakdown in the comments.
We saved a ton!!
Natürlich, what you save in dollars you lose in time. We didn’t look at it as a lose of time though, it saw it as a great way to get our creative juices flowing and gave us a flooring that is completely unique – and it saved us a bunch of money to boot! Win – win – win!
Gesamtkosten
22 Sperrholzplatten zu 32 $/Blatt = 704 $
17 quarts of stain @16.30/quart = $276
5 gallons of Poly @ $12/gallon = $60
TOTAL = $1040
Quadratfuß
22 Sheets * 32 sq. ft./sheet = 704 sq. ft.
1040 $ / 704 m². ft. = $1.47 per sq. ft.
The only negative I saw with plywood floor planks was the durability. It’s not a hardwood so it would scratch easier than an oak flooring would.
Now with my new wabi-sabi perspective, I’m actually looking forward to the scratches and dents.
The blemishes will only add to the floor’s beauty. If there’s a scratch that is really ugly, I can add something creative to give it beauty.
Perfectly imperfect.
Hier ist eine Liste der Werkzeuge, die wir für dieses Projekt verwendet.
Affiliate-Links unten auf ähnliche Elemente sein kann, wenn genaue Einzelteile nicht online gefunden werden können.
Extra-Batterie für Fertig-Nagler
Dies sind die Vorräte an diesem Projekt verwendet.
Affiliate-Links unten auf ähnliche Elemente sein kann, wenn genaue Einzelteile nicht online gefunden werden können.
Varathane Kirschbaum Gel Stain – we used about 7 quarts
Ölmodifiziertes Polyurethan auf Wasserbasis – we used 2 gallons
3″ Natural Bristle brush – 6 brushes to apply the stain
4″ Polyester Synthetic Brush – 4 brushes to apply the poly
Abdeckpapier – We used the masking paper to protect the deck when applying the stain and poly
The plywood plank flooring thickness we used is 1/2″ thick. If our floors weren’t so uneven we could have used 3/4″, but the flexibility that a 1/2″ plywood has was perfect to conform to our uneven sub-floor’s contours.
I think an added benefit to the 1/2″ plywood is that the spaces in between the planks doesn’t hold dirt as easily.
It may sound like that’s a bit of a stretch but I think if it was 3/4″ plywood, the extra 1/4″ of plywood thickness may make it harder for a vacuum to suck out things that get stuck in the spaces.
Wir waren uns nicht sicher, wie die Räume mit Staub und hineinfallenden Dingen zurechtkommen würden, aber bisher ist alles gut – nichts, was ein gutes Staubsaugen nicht beheben könnte. 🙂
Abgesehen davon, dass möglicherweise Dinge in den Zwischenräumen zwischen den Dielen stecken bleiben, I don’t see any reason you can’t use 3/4″ thick plywood for your plank flooring. Davon abgesehen, I also don’t really see a benefit to using it over 1/2″ plywood.
Wir wollten den Bauernhaus- oder Landhaus-Look, Also haben wir uns für ein breites Brett entschieden.
Wir wollten auch die Menge an verschwendetem Sperrholz reduzieren, Die Breite, die wir uns ausgedacht haben, betrug also 5 7/8″ für jedes Brett. Das ergibt 8 Bretter pro Platte und einen winzigen Streifen, der am Ende übrig bleibt.
We’ve seen other plywood floors where they went for 8 inch or even 12 inch boards. We didn’t want to make them that wide because we felt it made it obvious that it was a plywood floor.
And a wide board would have shown the dreaded plywood zebra pattern that I don’t care for (more on the plywood zebra pattern later).
There were a couple of questions in the comments about the type of plywood that was used for the plywood planks.
The plywood is regular 3-ply, cheapy weepy, plain Jane, rough finished 1/2″ pine plywood.
The exact name from Lowes is:
Plytanium 15/32″ CAT PS1-09 Square Structural Plywood Pine
Grundsätzlich gilt, the cheapest plywood we could get.
Since we wanted a rustic look the knots and imperfections weren’t a problem.
Hier sind einige Vorher-Bilder des Raums mit dem Originalboden.
Wir waren von der Farbe der Originalböden begeistert, Aber der Bodenbelag passte nie wirklich zum Stil des Hauses. It was a 3/8″ floating floor and the wood strips were fairly thin. Weil es schwebte und ein ziemlich dünner Boden war, Es klang immer etwas hohl, wenn man darauf ging.
Das eigentliche Problem des alten Bodenbelags war, dass er sich an einigen Stellen verformte, Wahrscheinlich liegt es an der Art und Weise, wie es installiert wurde.
Dieses Knicken war einer der Gründe, warum wir der Meinung waren, dass der breite Dielenboden aus Sperrholz perfekt für diesen Raum wäre.
Der breite Dielenboden hat einen Abstand um jedes Dielenbrett herum, Dieser Abstand würde verhindern, dass der neue Boden einknickt.
The measurements don’t need to be super precise. Rounding up the measurements and adding an extra plywood sheet to the total should give you enough wiggle room.
For our space, I treated it like a big rectangle. The length was 287″ (rounded up to 24′) and the width was 140″ (rounded up to 12′).
24 x 12 is 288 sq feet.
Each sheet of plywood is 4′ x 8′ so that gives you 32 square feet per sheet.
When I divided the total sq feet (288) by the sq feet per sheet (32) it told me I needed 9 sheets of plywood.
Then I added an extra sheet as a buffer.
Wir haben für unser Projekt 10 1/2-Zoll-Sperrholzplatten gekauft und nach Fertigstellung fertiggestellt, wir hatten noch ca. 1 Blatt übrig.
Gesamtzeit: 2 Personen ca. 2 Stunden
The original floor was a 3/8″ hardwood floor that was installed with a lot of staples…. wie viele Grundnahrungsmittel.
Zunaechst, Es fühlte sich an, als würde die Entfernung der Klammern EWIG dauern.
Sobald wir jedoch einen Rhythmus gefunden hatten, dauerte es wirklich nur ein paar Stunden, bis wir fast alle geschafft hatten.
Der Unterboden, den wir hatten, bestand aus unbemaltem Sperrholz.
Wenn wir den Breitdielen-Sperrholzboden verlegt hätten, ohne vorher den helleren Unterboden zu streichen, es hätte durch die Zwischenräume zwischen den Planken hindurchscheinen können.
Damit das nicht passiert, Wir haben den Unterboden in einem sehr dunklen Braunton gestrichen, mit Farbe, die wir bereits hatten.
Any dark paint color would do the job – just stick to a paint that is an eggshell or satin.
Sie möchten nicht, dass ein glänzender Unterboden durch die Zwischenräume zwischen den Dielen hindurchscheint.
Gesamtzeit: Mit der richtigen Klinge würde dies für 10 Blatt weniger als 2 Stunden dauern
Ich nenne sie weiterhin Planken oder Bretter, aber grundsätzlich, In diesem Schritt habe ich die Sperrholzplatten genommen und sie in lange Streifen geschnitten.
In vielen Pinterest-Beiträgen, auf die ich gestoßen bin, stand, dass sie eine Person von Lowes oder hatten Zuhause Depot hat die Laken für sie zugeschnitten.
Es ist definitiv eine Option. Ich habe ihre Schneidedienste in der Vergangenheit in Anspruch genommen, als die Schnitte nicht sehr präzise sein mussten.
In diesem Fall, Ich wollte präzisere Schnitte, Also habe ich mich dafür entschieden, es selbst zu tun.
It takes A LOT longer but I thought having consistently sized plywood planks was worth the extra time.
Dieser Weg, I was sure each piece was going to be about the same width.
To make cutting the pieces MUCH easier and to keep them the same width I made a jig.
They say hind site is 20/20, well looking back on it I would still cut the plywood strips for flooring myself.
I recently used the cutting services for another project where I didn’t care about the width they cut it an man o man, I don’t think there were two cuts that were the same width.
We had 10 sheets of plywood to cut into wide plywood planks. I figured that a plywood blade would be the best. I thought anything else would leave a really rough edge on the wood.
Gut, I was very, very wrong.
Do Not Use A Plywood Blade – Use a Cross Cut Blade instead
The plywood blade didn’t last very long and took a lot of effort to go through the plywood. It started smoking and having a lot more difficulty cutting barely halfway into the second sheet of plywood.
I ended up having to go out and buy another blade. This time I tried a cross cut blade, OMG what a difference.
The cross cut blade went through the plywood like butter and left an even better cut than the plywood blade did. I was able to do the rest of the plywood using just that one cross cut blade.
If you want to get the same cross cut blade I used, just click the picture below.
A jig is fancy talk for a template. It really made a tedious and time-consuming task super easy.
It was basically a 1/2″ piece of scrap plywood I had with a scrap piece of 1 x 4 screwed to it.
The space between the saw blade and the piece of 1 x 4 was 5 7/8″, the thickness we wanted our plywood flooring planks to be.
To make the jig I put the blade of the saw all the way up, secured the saw to the plywood with screws all around the saw, wedging it in place.
Then I slowly lowered the saw into the plywood and measured 5 7/8″ from the inside of the plunge cut and that’s where I screwed in the 1 x 4.
Weitere Informationen zur Schablone und einige zusätzliche Tipps zum Schneiden der Bretter finden Sie in diesem Beitrag, 3 zeitsparende Tipps für DIY-Dielensperrholzböden.
Spitze: Wenn Sie Ihre eigenen Bretter schneiden Du musst eine Schablone machen. Bei der Herstellung Ihrer Vorrichtung, Verlängern Sie den 1 x 4-Weg vor und hinter der Säge, wie es auf den Bildern ist.
Dadurch können Sie die Säge so ausrichten, dass das Sägeblatt das Sperrholz berührt. Es gibt auch mehr Stabilität, Am Ende erhält man einen geraderen Schnitt.
Gesamtzeit: 2 Personen etwa anderthalb Tage
Dieser Teil hat eine Weile gedauert, Aber es ist wichtig, sich die Zeit dafür zu nehmen.
Wir haben die Oberfläche des Sperrholzes abgeschliffen, um eventuelle Splitter und den Text zu entfernen, der manchmal auf dem Sperrholz eingeprägt ist.
Außerdem haben wir mit dem Schleifer die Kanten rund um die Vorderseite jeder Diele abgerundet.
The rounded edge gives it a really nice finished look and helps in cases like ours, where the floors aren’t very level.
Rounded edges give a soft transition between two planks when they don’t quite line up.
This is also where you choose which side of the plywood will be the face, the pretty side or the ugly side.
When we were choosing sides, I’d say we chose the ugly side 80% of the time.
It went against what I would normally do, but now I kinda wish I went with the ugly side more.
We used a belt sander to do most of the sanding. You could use a palm sander if you’re not doing too much flooring but in our case, the belt sander was much faster.
The sandpaper we used was 120 grit, it was perfect for the belt sander.
Während dieses Teils des Projekts, Sie werden Zweifel haben, ob Sie den knorrigen Teil des Sperrholzes verwenden sollten.
ABER VERTRAUEN SIE MIR – sobald Sie den Fleck auf das Sperrholz aufgetragen haben, werden Sie überwältigt sein, wie gut es aussieht.
Schlussendlich, Die schönsten Bretter waren diejenigen mit Unvollkommenheiten.
Spitze:
Wenn ein Brett einen Knoten oder einen Riss aufweist, Legen Sie es nicht zur Seite und verwenden Sie es nicht in einem Bereich, den Sie nicht sehen können.
Stattdessen, machen Sie es auffälliger. Graben Sie mit der Schleifmaschine in den Knoten oder Riss, um den Riss oder Knoten stärker hervorzuheben. Es hilft dabei, Splitter zu entfernen, die sich um den Knoten oder Riss herum befinden, und verleiht ihm Charakter.
Gesamtzeit: Wir haben dies gleichzeitig mit dem Schleifen durchgeführt, sodass es in den anderthalb Tagen, die wir mit dem Schleifen verbracht haben, enthalten ist
Dies ist der beunruhigende Teil der abgenutzten Sperrholzböden.
Für den Charakter des Sperrholzes standen drei Waffen zur Auswahl (a.k.a. beunruhigend), ein Hammer, eine große Zange und ein Propanbrenner.
Von den drei habe ich die Zange am häufigsten und den Hammer am wenigsten benutzt.
Mit einer Zange, Ich habe wiederholt mit der hinteren Ecke der Zange auf die Oberfläche des Sperrholzes geschlagen.
Mit dem Hammer, Ich habe die Seite des Hammers verwendet, und die Klaue, um Vertiefungen in das Sperrholz zu machen.
Wenn Sie auf dem Bild direkt über dem Hammer auf den Boden schauen, sehen Sie die Vertiefungen auf der Rückseite der Zange links.
Ich habe auch ein Universalmesser verwendet, um eventuelle Risse im Holz zu öffnen, um sie stärker hervorzuheben.
Ich habe das gemacht, indem ich das Messer schräg gestellt und entlang des Risses geschnitten habe, den Riss öffnen, Ähnlich wie bei Rissen im Beton, wenn man einen Riss füllen möchte.
Das Beunruhigende (auch bekannt als Charakterbildung) ist ein wichtiger Schritt für rustikale Sperrholzböden im Used-Look.
Durch die Verfugung und den Riss wirken die Dielen authentisch, je belastender, desto besser.
The propane torch was by far my favorite character builder – and it wasn’t because it spoke to my inner pyro…. Na ja, vielleicht ein bisschen wegen meiner inneren Pyro-Stimme, lol.
Durch das Verbrennen des Sperrholzes entsteht sofort ein erstaunlicher, gealterter Look.
Dies ist ein weiterer Teil des Prozesses, bei dem ich sehr gezögert habe.
Aber sobald der Fleck weitergeht, Die Sperrholzbretter verwandeln sich sofort in eine wunderschön gealterte Diele!
Take a look at the before and after picture of the burned plywood plank.
When burning the wood there are definitely thoughts of Oh My God! This is too much!
Aber, as soon as the stain goes on, it blends the darkness of the burn the the rest of the plywood colors beautifully.
Whenever we came across a plank that looked a little boring, we burned some character into it to liven things up. 🙂
Take a look at the arrows in the picture, each one of those dark marks is the work of the propane torch.
Spitze: When burning the plywood, the lighter parts of the wood burn much easier than the darker parts.
Since I was avoiding that plywood zebra pattern, I didn’t burn the wood where there was a heavy pattern.
Burning that area would only emphasize the pattern – and I didn’t want that.
Wenn der Teil des Holzes entweder nur dunkel oder nur hell war, konnte er verbrannt werden.
Hier ist ein Video, wie wir den rustikalen Sperrholzboden aus breiten Dielen verbrannt haben.
Der Prozess begann damit, zunächst eine Reihe verschiedener Beizen auf Sperrholzresten auszuprobieren, und das war bei weitem unser Favorit!
Wir haben uns für eine Gelbeize anstelle einer normalen Beize entschieden, weil sie das Sperrholz-Zebramuster, das wir nicht wollten, wirklich gut überdeckt.
Es ist völlig eine persönliche Präferenz, but I don’t like the pattern you get from regular stain on plywood floors.
Take a look at this picture I copied from Pinterest, for an example of what I’m talking about.
Regular stain is more liquid and gets absorbed by the plywood at different rates. Softer parts of the wood absorb the stain faster than the denser parts of the wood.
A workaround would also be to use a wood conditioner before applying regular stain.
Stattdessen, we used the gel stain.
Because we used the gel, we were able to skip the wood conditioner.
Plus, the gel stain added a nice wood grain pattern on the surface of the board, making it look less like plywood….BONUS!
The gel stain we used had a dark color and created a lighter stain on the wood. The result was a cherry colored wood with a dark grain pattern on top, exactly what we were looking for.
The thicker you applied the stain the darker the board would be.
Auch, the longer you waited before brushing the excess stain off the darker the plank will be.
If a plank had a heavy zebra pattern on it, we put the stain on thick and waited a bit more before dry brushing it.
That did a pretty good job of minimizing the zebra pattern.
The brush we used for the stain was a cheap wide (about 4″) real bristle brush.
The stain has a strong polyurethane smell to it, so we did the staining out on the deck and also let the boards dry out there.
If you’re going to do the same, make sure to first check the weather forecast!
We used about 7 quarts of stain to do our project.
Gesamtzeit: 2 people about a day
When we stained the plywood floors, we did one coat of stain using the dry brush technique.
Grundsätzlich gilt, first we applied the stain with the wet brush, then used a dry brush to brush off the excess stain.
With every pass of the dry brush, we would wipe off the dry brush on a paper towel to remove the majority of the stain from it.
We chose the dry brush method because it leaves a nice dark wood pattern.
When applying the stain and dry brushing, we were able to play with the texture that the stain leaves on the plywood.
Das Mischen und die Verwendung wellenförmiger Pinselstriche, um eine Maserung zu simulieren, oder das Bürsten um einen Ast im Holz herum verliehen jedem Brett seine Einzigartigkeit.
Merken, Je länger der Fleck einwirkt und desto länger trocknet er, bevor er mit der Trockenbürste aufgetragen wird, desto dunkler wird die Tafel.
Normalerweise haben wir den Fleck aufgetragen und ein paar Minuten gewartet, bevor wir den trockenen Pinsel verwendet haben.
Wenn wir auf ein Brett stießen, auf dem sich viel Zebramuster befand, trugen wir eine dickere Schicht auf und ließen es etwas länger einwirken.
Durch das dickere Fell und die längere Wartezeit konnte das Zebramuster besser maskiert werden.
Nach dem Auftragen der Beize warteten wir 24 Stunden, bevor wir das Polyurethan auftrugen.
Gesamtzeit: 2 Personen etwa anderthalb Tage
For the finish we used a clear satin, water based, oil-modified polyurethane.
This product was perfect for our project because it didn’t change the color of the stain, dried quickly and best of all – it’s oderless!
If you’ve ever done any sort of polyurethane project. you know that the smell from polyurathane is no joke… and it lingers for days and days. This has no smell at all!
We went with a satin finish because we wanted an aged look and a glossy floor would be the opposite of that.
Three thin coats of poly were applied on all the boards, including the sides of the boards. Between each coat, we waited about 2 hours before applying the next coat.
We then waited 24 hours after the last coat before installing the boards.
We didn’t sand between the first and second coats but did do a light hand sanding with 120 grit sandpaper before applying the final coat.
The brush we used for the poly was a cheap wide (about 6″) synthetic brush.
We used 2 gallons of polyurethane for our project.
Spitze: When applying any polyurethane, bubbles are something you want to avoid.
That’s because the bubbles don’t pop. Stattdessen, they dry into poly… and that’s not a good look. lol
To prevent bubbles, mix the poly using a mixing stick using smooth circular motions.
No shaking the can here!
Aktualisieren: When we originally did the dining room floor we did a light sanding before the final coat of poly.
Recently we did the living room floor and for that flooring, we skipped the sanding before the poly.
We figured not sanding would give the planks a bit more texture and save us a boatload of time.
It worked out really well! From now on, we won’t be sanding before the final poly coat.
The spaces between each plank were perfect for the style we were looking for.
The spacing would give it more of that farmhouse feel and prevent the buckling that the previous floor suffered from.
A few of the posts on Pinterest mentioned using quarters as spacers, so that’s what we used.
Our breites Brettsperrholzboden has small variations in the spacing, mostly because of the uneven floors – but that’s ok – wabi-sabi. 😉
I used a tip I came across on one of the Pinterest posts, starting on the side of the room where the floor is the most visible.
For our space the most visible part of the floor was by the front door so that’s where we started.
When we reached the opposite end of the space we ended up with the last row of planks needing to be ripped in half.
Each plank was 8 feet long and the room was a little over 12 feet wide, so there weren’t too many seams to work with.
The rule of thumb is to not have two consecutive rows with seems less than a foot apart from each other.
I used a miter saw to cut the boards to length. Pretty straight forward. One tip is to make sure the blade reaches full speed before you start cutting into the plywood. That’ll give you a clean, smooth cut.
Spitze: Every once and a while making a cut would create a thin line of bare wood at the very edge of the cut. When that happened I used a dark colored sharpie to color that bare wood and that blended it right in.
I used a black sharpie but a brown sharpie would work just as well.
I actually used the sharpie a lot with the length-wise cuts.
Spitze: If you end up buying the same nail gun I’d recommend also buying an extra battery. It already comes with one battery, buying the extra battery will help keep your project moving along.
The plywood flooring we installed is 1/2″ thick and the previous flooring was 3/8″ thick.
The 1/8″ difference meant any spaces where the previous flooring used to fit – the new flooring no longer did.
That difference meant a lot of undercutting. Not only the door moldings but all the furring strips that cover the seams of the oak boards on the walls.
I could have done it with a dovetail saw, but since I had quite a few cuts to do, I bought an oscillating tool. It worked perfectly!
The tool comes with a bunch of different attachments. I haven’t used it for anything else yet but I can think of a few different uses for it in the future.
Also, all told, it took roughly a week to do the plywood plank floors – from complete start to complete finish. Including the old floor removal, subfloor painted, 10 sheets of plywood cut into strips, geschliffen, betrübt, stained, polyied and installed.
This was a good sized project with a lot of effort put into it, but it was well worth it. We now have a completely unique floor that fits perfectly with the house, and looks fantastic!!
In the fall, we’re going to install the same rustic wide plank plywood flooring in the living room, und ich freue mich riesig darauf.
We’re also going to do a unique transition between the living room and dining room floors… can’t wait.
Aktualisieren: Gut, Wir haben kürzlich die Wohnböden neu gestaltet und auch den Holzlamellen-Akzentboden verlegt. Es hat alles perfekt geklappt!
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Well finally here is the best plywood plank flooring tutorial I have found. Thank you so much for sharing this. I to have been bothered by the zebra effect that you get when staining plywood. And you've given me the solution, I'd almost given up on plywood flooring. Fingers crossed I'm off to Home Depot. Danke noch einmal
Hallo Gott! Thanks for the feedback, glad the post helped. Best of luck with your plywood project! Feel free to reach out if you have a question along the way. :)
The main question we have is about how you keep dirt out of the spaces between the boards. Did you put a finish coat of poly on the entire floor after it was done? How do you keep it clean?
Hallo David!
That's a great question! The 3 coats of poly were applied to each board individually, before putting them down.
We figured it was more important to have a good coating of poly on the sides of each board, to make them a bit more resistant to moisture (especially in the kitchen).
The dining room/kitchen floor is about 9 months old, and so far everything has cleaned up very nicely.
We were a little worried about having little bits of food falling in the cracks in the kitchen, but vacuuming seems to pick up everything that's in the cracks pretty easily.
Maybe it's because the floors are only 1/2" dick? It's possible a thicker flooring (like 3/4" flooring) would make it harder for the vacuum to get debris out of the cracks.
Ich hoffe, das hilft!
What kind of plywood did you use? My dad keeps telling me he thinks it’s an oak plywood.
Hi Brook!
I just used regular 15/32 in. (1/2") 3-Ply RTD Sheathing plywood, like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/15-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-3-Ply-RTD-Sheathing-132411/100067329
The oak plywood is usually a lot more expensive and is usually finished plywood. I was looking for a rustic look, so the regular plywood was a perfect fit... not to mention a lot cheaper!
Ich hoffe das hilft!
What kind of plywood did you use? Was it oak plywood?
Hi Brook,
I added a blurb to the article about the type of plywood since that was unclear before.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for your time and effort putting this together. Your systematic, step by step explanation of the process is a real confidence booster and the result is beautiful. I agree that the typical plywood zebra pattern is not desirable. Am I understanding correctly that the gel stain and dry brush technique is used to CREATE a more pleasing wood grain pattern? In a sense "painting" on a wood grain look?
Hi Dan,
Vielen Dank für die netten Worte, I'm glad it's been helpful to you. :)
That's exactly right! This stain is the same stuff that's used to create a wood pattern on surfaces like steel doors.
The grain you see in the close-ups is, for the most part, a pattern created by the stain.
What type of plywood did you use? I can’t seem to find that anywhere.
Hi Courtney,
The plywood is regular 15/32 in. (1/2″) 3-Ply RTD Sheathing plywood. You’re the second person to ask what the type of plywood it is so I’ll make sure to add that info to the article.
Thanks for your comment!
Hallo Steve, this is great. Loved your ideas! My question is about moisture - with the cracks between the planks and the sub floor underneath, could you put a top coat of sealer to fill the cracks or possibly seal the sub floor? Any ideas? We have kids and are considering doing this in our main living area which includes the dining room. I am pretty confident it will subject to moisture sometimes. Vielen Dank!
Hi Jeremiah,
Vielen Dank!!!
Hmmm, our plywood flooring is on the second floor so we didn’t have to worry about moisture coming from underneath.
If the moisture your concerned about is coming from above – as in kids will be dropping water on top of the flooring, that shouldn’t be a problem.
By finishing each board individually, you’ll be able to apply “poly” all around the plank, making it more resilient to water being dropped on it. That’s why we chose to finish each plank individually, instead of finishing the whole floor at once.
We did add a couple of coats of dark paint on the subfloor to give it a layer of protection from moisture from above.
If you’re really concerned about the subfloor getting moisture (which sounds more and more like what you’re concerned about as I go through the process of answering your question) then you can definitely apply a sealer to the subfloor before installing the plywood flooring.
Als Alternative, you can apply a coat of the “poly” on the subfloor. If that’s the path I was taking, I’d paint the subfloor a dark color first, then apply the “poly”. I’d use a flat finish poly on the subfloor, that way the cracks won’t be shiny.
Oh one more thing, you mentioned filling the cracks with sealer. I’d avoid doing that. We face-nailed the planks to the subfloor and kept spacing between each plank to allow for expansion. If the cracks were filled, the plywood wouldn’t have the space to expand and that may lead to problems.
Ich hoffe, das hilft!
Best of luck!
A great, step-by-step , comprehensive explanation of how to go from start to finish with the plywood floors! Excited to try. Thank you for taking the time to share.
Grateful,
Sallye
Thank you so much Sallye! Best of luck with your flooring!
Hi great article. Danke. I would like to use this technique of flooring in an outdoor patio. It is screened in but occasionally rain is blown in and the floor becomes wet. Do you think I could put a sealer on top? Or do you have advice for outdoor use of plywood?
Hi Patz,
Vielen Dank! I'm glad you enjoyed it. Wow that's a tough one. The obvious question is how much rain gets blown in? If the existing flooring (or subflooring) is plywood and is holding up, then I can see this working well.
In the kitchen, the flooring does get its fair share of "accidents" and it has held up perfectly... but my occasional accidents are no measure to what mama nature can throw at the floors.
If I were thinking of doing this project in an area that is partially exposed to the elements, I'd probably lean toward using pressure-treated plywood. Its pricier but it would be worth the additional cost.
It would be horrible to finish a project like this and love the way your floors look, only to have the floor ruined by unusually heavy rain.
Ja, my suggestion would be to use pressure-treated plywood. The stain will cover up the yellow tint of pressure-treated plywood, so it would basically look the same and you wouldn't have to worry about the rain.
Ich hoffe das hilft.
Steve
This is absolutely beautiful. Thank you so much for putting together such a detailed tutorial. This is exactly what we're looking for in our new home. We haven't moved in yet, but I will be taking the next few weeks to make all of the plywood boards for when we do move in! Did you finish all the sides of the plywood planks including the underside? And then when you made cuts to length and had unfinished wood, did you do anything to finish it before installing?
Hi Eric! Vielen Dank, and congrats on the new home!
At the start of our project the plan was to finish the boards on every side. But once we started we realized that was a lot of extra work and changed our minds.
If the floor was going in an area that had a lot of moisture then I would have definitely added a coat of the polycrylic to the underside. Since this was on a second floor there would be less chance of moisture entering the wood from underneath.
With the cuts to length, that cut goes toward the wall, so we didn’t need to add any finish to it. Since the cuts from the compound miter saw were so clean (no splintering) none of the bare wood was visible.
Oh, there is something I never mentioned in the post, for cuts that went length-wise, like around kitchen cabinets, the cuts were not nearly as clean. With those cuts I used a dark-colored sharpy (brown or black) to color in the cut so that it wouldn’t show.
I used the sharpie to color in any part of the wood that we had somehow missed when applying the stain. There weren’t many but there were more than one spot that needed some coloring. Mostly around the holes and once in a while there was an edge that didn’t quite get enough stain. The sharpie covered it up perfectly.
I hope that answers your questions. Best of luck with your project!!
Steve